![[Datsun 1200 encyclopedia]](/wiki/upload/wiki.png)
| Revision as of 04:11, 9 February 2009 Ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->Interchange) <- Previous diff |
Revision as of 04:13, 9 February 2009 Ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) Next diff -> |
||
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
| - | Datsun 1200 was fitted with a lightweight 35 AMP Hitachi alternator. These alternators will usually last 10-15 years or more than 100,000 miles. The only normal maintainence is to replace the brushes when the [[Wiring#How_the_Alternator_Dash_Light_Works|dashboard alternator light]] starts flickering. The alternator uses an external [[Voltage regulator]]. | + | Datsun 1200 was fitted with a lightweight (8.4 pound) 35 AMP Hitachi alternator. These alternators will usually last 10-15 years or more than 100,000 miles. The only normal maintainence is to replace the brushes when the [[Wiring#How_the_Alternator_Dash_Light_Works|dashboard alternator light]] starts flickering. The alternator uses an external [[Voltage regulator]]. |
| The early A-series engines (1966-1973) mount the alternator down low on the left side of the engine, under the intake manifold. 1973-up engines mount it high on the right side of the engine. | The early A-series engines (1966-1973) mount the alternator down low on the left side of the engine, under the intake manifold. 1973-up engines mount it high on the right side of the engine. | ||
| Line 19: | Line 19: | ||
| * Measure Ohms between F & E terminals. It should be approxmiately 5 ohms. If higher or lower, remove alternator and inspect. | * Measure Ohms between F & E terminals. It should be approxmiately 5 ohms. If higher or lower, remove alternator and inspect. | ||
| * Perform Regulator Bypass Test | * Perform Regulator Bypass Test | ||
| - | ** Be sure to test at A & E terminals, to bypass external wiring problems | + | *# Be sure to test at A & E terminals, to bypass external wiring problems |
| - | ** Jump the F terminal to Battery + | + | *# Disconnect T-shaped connector (F+N) at alternator, to bypass the regulator wiring |
| - | ** Test with headlight main beams on | + | *# Jump the F terminal to Battery + |
| + | *# Test with headlight main beams on | ||
| *: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=18733 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/18733.jpg] | *: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=18733 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/18733.jpg] | ||
| - | *: Output at 1100 should be 12.5 volts or higher | + | *# Output at 1100 should be 12.5 volts or higher |
Revision as of 04:13, 9 February 2009
Datsun 1200 was fitted with a lightweight (8.4 pound) 35 AMP Hitachi alternator. These alternators will usually last 10-15 years or more than 100,000 miles. The only normal maintainence is to replace the brushes when the dashboard alternator light starts flickering. The alternator uses an external Voltage regulator.
The early A-series engines (1966-1973) mount the alternator down low on the left side of the engine, under the intake manifold. 1973-up engines mount it high on the right side of the engine.
Contents |
Wiring
See: Wiring article.
Testing
The alternator has four terminals:
- A - alternator connects to Battery cable + 12V via large white/red wire.
- E - earth/ground. Connected to case of alternator, hence though bracket to the engine. Engine is grounded by black cable (part of the two-cable negative battery cable)
- F - the Field. This needs 12V to get the alternator working. The Voltage regulator turns this on/off (12V) rapidly to achieve an average of 13.5-15.0 volts
- N - Nuetral point. This is connected to the dash Lamp. This is optional, the alternator will function with this disconnected.
Test Procedures
- With engine running at 1100 rpm, measure Voltage across battery cable. If it reads between 13.5-15.0 volts, everything is fine (or over 12.5 volts headlights on main beams)
- Measure Ohms between F & E terminals. It should be approxmiately 5 ohms. If higher or lower, remove alternator and inspect.
- Perform Regulator Bypass Test
- Be sure to test at A & E terminals, to bypass external wiring problems
- Disconnect T-shaped connector (F+N) at alternator, to bypass the regulator wiring
- Jump the F terminal to Battery +
- Test with headlight main beams on
- Output at 1100 should be 12.5 volts or higher
Interchange
Strict interchange:
- Alternator (35 AMP model)
- 510 1968-early 1971 USA
- 521 1969-early 1971 USA
- 620 1973-1979 USA
- Alternator (50 AMP model)
- F10 1976-1977 USA
- 510 Late 1971 USA
- 521 Late 1971 USA
- 620 1973-1979 USA
Loose interchange: Many kinds of alternators. See Upgrade section below.
Part Numbers
- 23100-U0100 Stock 35 amp Hitachi LT-135-13
- 23100-U0102 Hitachi LT-135-35B
- 23100-U0103 Hitachi LT-135-35C
- OE+ AL208 $18.04 USD
- BECK/ARNLEY 1860077 $35.79
- BOSCH AL231X,AL232X $50.79
B210 A13 engine 50 amp Hitachi LT-150
- 23100-P0101 ASSY-ALTERNATOR OP -0973
- 23100-H6203 ASSY-ALTERNATOR OP 1073-0874
- replaces 23100-P0101, 23100-H6200, 23100-H6201, 23100-H6202
B210 A14 engine 50 amp Hitachi LT-150
- Looks like stock 35A
- 23100-H7200 0974-0375
- 23100-H7201 0475-0975
- 23100-H7202 0575-0177
- 23100-H7203 0277-0777
- 23100-H7204 replaces H7200/01/02/03
- Bosch AL237X ['http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1210813,parttype,2412,EPIsubcategory[97],Alternator,partGroup,18' $75.79 RockAuto.com]
B210 1978 50 amp Hitachi LR150-36
- 23100-H7700 0877-
Brushes
Hitachi LT
- Nissan 1970-1978
- Subaru 1977-1978
- Isuzu (Chevrolet) 1975-1987
B110
- 23133-H0300 ASSY-HOLDER,BRUSH $5.95
Brush Assembly with cover
- 23133-U0101 ASSY-BRUSH B210 -0874 $10.97
- replaces 23133-U0100
- 23133-P0100 ASSY-BRUSH B210 0974 $12.19
Brush Assembly
- 23135-H0300- F B110, B210 A13 $5.95
- 23135-H0301- E B110, B210 A13
Brushes, requires soldering
- STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # JX107 $2.79
Brush Assembly LR150 (B210 from 0877)
- 23135-P2500 BRUSH ASSY LR150
- 23133-P2501 BRUSH REGULATOR ASSY LR150 replaces 23133-P2500
- Includes IC regulator
- STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # VR592
-
Regulator
B110 uses an external voltage regulator. It uses a connector with spade terminals, and so is different from B210 which uses round pins. It controls the alternator output to between 13.5-15.0 volts.
See main article: Voltage regulator
Upgrades
If you are running high-power headlights, off-road lighting systems, or high-power stereo gear, using a high output alternator is called for. Or, if you need to replace the 1200 alternator and have free or inexpensive access to different alternators, you might consider a swap. Lastly you might have a bad Voltage regulator, and by swapping to an internally-regulated alternator reliability increases since these use a solid-state (no moving parts) regulator.
There are two major considerations in a swap:
- Physical swap. How does it bolt to the A12 engine?
- Electrical swap. How will the new alternator be connected to the wiring?
For more details, see Alternator Upgrades.