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The Datsun 1200 never came factory with electric windows. But it is not too difficult to fit them. Just keep in mind it will add some weight.
- Aftermarket Kits (e.g. for sale on eBay)
- Conversion using OEM parts (junkyard parts)
Ddgonzal's solution
Here's my power window solution. All that was needed was a hacksaw, a brake (sheet metal bender) and a drill. And some heavy-gauge sheet metal. It worked first time. Total cost: $30 USD (in 1984 dollars).
Door-mounted Switch. I'm sure you could do better than this...
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- The OEM Ford switch is mounted to the stock door panel hole, covering the hole for the now-removed crank handle
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- The switch is mounted in a round container made from a cocktail-weenie can. It is very easy to cut the thin aluminum. I glued stock door-panel fabric to the side and bottom of the can for a semi-stock look.
The finished parts (switch and regulator):
This uses a mid-70s Ford motor
Regular mod: I hack-sawed off the crank-handle gear, and bolted the motor in the same spot. The motor's gear fit the Datsun regular gear perfectly:
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- Simple sheet-metal bracket locates the motor, and bolts to the regulator. This motor is a mid-70s GM Cadillac motor, but most GM motors were the same.
Bearing plate to locate the motor's pinion gear end. This bolts to the stock holes in the regulator. There is a simple hole drilled in the aluminum for the gear end. Super-simple.
The drilled hole for motor shaft is visible here
All the parts for two windows:
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- One Ford motor, one GM motor
- I used factory wires (cut as much from the donor car as possible)
- The two brackets in top right corner are limit-switches, where when the window goes up and down, it hits the switch and cuts power. But those aren't necessary and unnecesarily complicated, so I didn't use them on the other side (when the window goes up or down, it stops with or without a switch) like done in most cars. Fords and GMs didn't use limit switches -- the door frame stops the motor. It also seemed to work OK on my 1200 without 'em. I thought maybe the 1200 door frame wouldn't be strong enough so I tried the limit switch. Most power windows seem to go up (or down), bottom out and flex the door a little, then stop.
- Be sure to use a factory circuit-breaker (small rectangular wiring block). This de-powers the system if the motor overheats (like if you hold the switch down for a long time).
Door wiring:
For my power window wires, I drilled 1/2 inch holes in the door and chassis, next to the existing door switch hole. Then I used plan 1/2 o.d. rubber tubing from a used car and ran the wires inside that. It worked perfectly, the hose didn't wear from chafing, and the wires were safely protected inside.
Now I am more horrifiied at the thought of drilling holes in my new 1200. I've been thinking of ways to do it without drilling ... any ideas?
Discussion: real Power Windows, not a kit