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| Revision as of 01:52, 22 November 2012 ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->PTC Choke) <- Previous diff |
Current revision ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->Wiring) |
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| A gasoline engine only needs the choke (strangler) while warming up. When the engine is fully warmed, the choke must be fully off for correct operation. | A gasoline engine only needs the choke (strangler) while warming up. When the engine is fully warmed, the choke must be fully off for correct operation. | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{Template:Hitachi_306}} | ||
| = Usage = | = Usage = | ||
| - | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=7711 Starting Procedure with Automatic Choke] <br><img size=400>http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/7711.jpg</img> | + | == Manual Choke == |
| + | {{OwnersManualB120|06||STARTING THE ENGINE<br> | ||
| + | <br>-- Engine Warm -- | ||
| + | <br>If the engine is relatively warm, you may not need to use the choke at all. Just press the accelerator pedal down about one-quarter of its travel to the floor, and thrn the ignition key in the switch to "START", when the engine starts running under its own power, release the key ... | ||
| + | <br> | ||
| + | <br>-- Enging Cold (Cold Weather) -- | ||
| + | <br>With a cold engine, pull the choke control button out all the way, press the accelerator pedal down slightly, and then start the engine. As soon as the engine starts, push the choke control button in far enough to keep the engine running smoothly ... | ||
| + | <br> | ||
| + | <br>-- Avoid -- | ||
| + | <br>Pumping the accelerator pedal before you start up does not do any good...}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Automatic Choke == | ||
| + | Automatic choke was first fitted to 1972 Datsun 1200 for North America market (Canada & USA). Fitted to Japan market Datsun 1200 for 1976. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Starting Procedure with Automatic Choke | ||
| + | <br>{{Album|7711}} {{Album|21608}} | ||
| = Operation = | = Operation = | ||
| Line 20: | Line 37: | ||
| For an '''automatic choke''' (engine fully warmed up), the choke butterfly (looking down into the carb) should be fully open, as in the bottom part of this photo: | For an '''automatic choke''' (engine fully warmed up), the choke butterfly (looking down into the carb) should be fully open, as in the bottom part of this photo: | ||
| - | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=4401 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/4401.jpg] | + | <br>{{Album|4401}} |
| <br>bottom: choke fully open | <br>bottom: choke fully open | ||
| After warming up fully, if you manually close the choke butterfly, then the engine shouldn't idle correctly. | After warming up fully, if you manually close the choke butterfly, then the engine shouldn't idle correctly. | ||
| - | <li>It should idle nicely with the choke open</li> | + | <ul><li>It should idle nicely with the choke open</li> |
| - | <li>It it works fairly good partly closed, you have a vacuum leak somewhere</li> | + | <li>It it works fairly good partly closed, you have a vacuum leak somewhere</li></ul> |
| == Choke Gradually Opens While Engine Warming Up == | == Choke Gradually Opens While Engine Warming Up == | ||
| Manual Choke: Gradually push the knob in to open the choke butterfly. If you push it in too far, the engine may stall. If out too far, the engine "chugs" (runs rich). Experiment a little. Your goal is to make it run it's best. You will need to push the knob gradually in every 30 seconds or so until it runs well fully close (knob pushed to dash) | Manual Choke: Gradually push the knob in to open the choke butterfly. If you push it in too far, the engine may stall. If out too far, the engine "chugs" (runs rich). Experiment a little. Your goal is to make it run it's best. You will need to push the knob gradually in every 30 seconds or so until it runs well fully close (knob pushed to dash) | ||
| - | |||
| Automatic choke: as soon as the engine starts vacuum should pull the choke open about 1/8 inch, by the [[Choke pull-off]] diaphragm. Otherwise, the engine "loads up" (runs rich) immediately after starting and might even die again. | Automatic choke: as soon as the engine starts vacuum should pull the choke open about 1/8 inch, by the [[Choke pull-off]] diaphragm. Otherwise, the engine "loads up" (runs rich) immediately after starting and might even die again. | ||
| - | = PTC Choke = | + | = Specifications = |
| - | In 1975 the '''Positive Temperature Coefficient''' (P.T.C.) type Automatic choke type was introduced for North America engines. | + | Original 1972 automatic choke |
| - | <blockquote>Electric automatic choke heater redesigned | + | 8.6 - 9.0 ohms @ 21C (70F) degrees temperature |
| + | [measure with high-impedance gauge or [[wikipedia:Wheatstone bridge|Wheatstone bridge]]] | ||
| - | A new positive temperature coefficient (P.T.C. heater) has replace the previous coil heater. | + | This implies the choke will draw about 1.2 amps maximum. |
| + | |||
| + | I = V/R | ||
| + | Current = Voltage/Resistance | ||
| + | 1.7 amps = 15 volts/9 ohms | ||
| + | |||
| + | Note that Lead-acid battery voltage is regulated at about [[Voltage Regulator|15 volts]]. | ||
| + | |||
| + | == PTC Choke == | ||
| + | In 1975 the '''Positive Temperature Coefficient''' (P.T.C.) type Automatic choke type was introduced for North America engines. | ||
| + | |||
| + | <blockquote>A new positive temperature coefficient (P.T.C. heater) has replaced the previous coil heater. | ||
| ELECTRIC AUTOMATIC CHOKE | ELECTRIC AUTOMATIC CHOKE | ||
| <br>... by changing the previous nichrome wire type into the P.T.C. heater. The temperature characteristic of the P.T.C. heater</blockquote> | <br>... by changing the previous nichrome wire type into the P.T.C. heater. The temperature characteristic of the P.T.C. heater</blockquote> | ||
| - | Basically it has a better opening curve to suit the engine without loading up in spots as did the early auto chokes. | + | Basically it has a better opening curve to suit the engine without loading up in spots as did the early auto chokes. You can read more about choke technology in [http://www.google.com/patents/US3699937 Patent US 3699937]. Patent applied 1971. First application 1972. |
| - | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=24980 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/24980.jpg] | + | {{Album|24980}} |
| = Adjustment= | = Adjustment= | ||
| Line 51: | Line 79: | ||
| = Wiring = | = Wiring = | ||
| - | 1972 & 1973 USA 1200 models were fitted with an automatic electric-heated choke setup. | + | 1200 models starting with 1972 USA & 1976 Japan models were fitted with an automatic choke setup. |
| - | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=2211 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/2211.jpg] | + | <br>{{Album|2211}} |
| - | <br>Choke harness wire = Red | + | <br>Choke harness wire = Red, seen at lower right of photo |
| - | This also uses a relay so wiring is slightly complicated. You can simply connect the choke to 12V switch ignition (e.g. the ballast resistor), but using a relay that cuts power when the engine isn't running (alternator stops) is the preferred solution. | + | This also uses a relay -- so wiring is complicated. However, you can simply connect the choke to 12V switch ignition (e.g. the ballast resistor). Using a relay that cuts power when the engine isn't running (alternator stops) is the preferred solution. |
| - | See main article: [[Alternator_Wiring#Automatic_Choke_Relay|Alternator Wiring - Automatic Choke Relay]] | + | {{Main|Electric Choke Wiring}} |
| = Part Numbers = | = Part Numbers = | ||
| + | RELAY - see [[Electric Choke Wiring#Part Numbers]] | ||
| + | |||
| B110 USA | B110 USA | ||
| 14806-N2200 LABEL-AUTO CHOKE CONTROL | 14806-N2200 LABEL-AUTO CHOKE CONTROL | ||
| - | Electric Choke | + | Electric Choke can use Holley 5200 or Weber [[DGV]] choke [http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1133480,parttype,6004 $10 to $15] |
| - | * Can use Holley 5200 or Weber [[DGV]] choke [http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1133480,parttype,6004 $10 to $15] | + | |
| + | Also See: [[DCH Carburetor Part Numbers]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | 1974 A13 choke thermostat cover (fits 1200) | ||
| + | <br>{{Thumb|26526}} {{Thumb|26527}} {{Thumb|26528}} | ||
| - | Also See | + | = Also See = |
| [[Choke Cable]] | [[Choke Cable]] | ||
| [[Carburetor Parts]] | [[Carburetor Parts]] | ||
| + | [[Choke Linkage]] | ||
| - | {{Template:Hitachi 306}} | ||
| [[Category:Fuel System]] | [[Category:Fuel System]] | ||
| - | [[Category:Engine Control]] | + | [[Category:Engine Control]]{{End}} |
Current revision
A gasoline engine only needs the choke (strangler) while warming up. When the engine is fully warmed, the choke must be fully off for correct operation.
Contents |
Usage
Manual Choke
1974 B120 Owner's Manual (Page 06 ... )
STARTING THE ENGINE
-- Engine Warm --
If the engine is relatively warm, you may not need to use the choke at all. Just press the accelerator pedal down about one-quarter of its travel to the floor, and thrn the ignition key in the switch to "START", when the engine starts running under its own power, release the key ...
-- Enging Cold (Cold Weather) --
With a cold engine, pull the choke control button out all the way, press the accelerator pedal down slightly, and then start the engine. As soon as the engine starts, push the choke control button in far enough to keep the engine running smoothly ...
-- Avoid --
Pumping the accelerator pedal before you start up does not do any good...
Automatic Choke
Automatic choke was first fitted to 1972 Datsun 1200 for North America market (Canada & USA). Fitted to Japan market Datsun 1200 for 1976.
Starting Procedure with Automatic Choke
Operation
Here is what to expect from a choke:
Choked fully closed When Engine is Cold
Manual
- With the dashboard Choke knob pulled all the way out, the choke butterfly on the carburetor should be fully closed.
- In normal operation, only when the engine is cold should the choke be partially closed (knob pulled out)
Automatic
- With engine cold, moderate temperatures, the butterfly should close 100% (open throttle slightly to 'set' it)
Choke fully open when Engine is Warmed Up
For a manual choke (cold or hot engine), with the dashboard knob pushed all the way in, the choke butterfly should be fully open
For an automatic choke (engine fully warmed up), the choke butterfly (looking down into the carb) should be fully open, as in the bottom part of this photo:
bottom: choke fully open
After warming up fully, if you manually close the choke butterfly, then the engine shouldn't idle correctly.
- It should idle nicely with the choke open
- It it works fairly good partly closed, you have a vacuum leak somewhere
Choke Gradually Opens While Engine Warming Up
Manual Choke: Gradually push the knob in to open the choke butterfly. If you push it in too far, the engine may stall. If out too far, the engine "chugs" (runs rich). Experiment a little. Your goal is to make it run it's best. You will need to push the knob gradually in every 30 seconds or so until it runs well fully close (knob pushed to dash)
Automatic choke: as soon as the engine starts vacuum should pull the choke open about 1/8 inch, by the Choke pull-off diaphragm. Otherwise, the engine "loads up" (runs rich) immediately after starting and might even die again.
Specifications
Original 1972 automatic choke
8.6 - 9.0 ohms @ 21C (70F) degrees temperature [measure with high-impedance gauge or Wheatstone bridge]
This implies the choke will draw about 1.2 amps maximum.
I = V/R Current = Voltage/Resistance 1.7 amps = 15 volts/9 ohms
Note that Lead-acid battery voltage is regulated at about 15 volts.
PTC Choke
In 1975 the Positive Temperature Coefficient (P.T.C.) type Automatic choke type was introduced for North America engines.
A new positive temperature coefficient (P.T.C. heater) has replaced the previous coil heater. ELECTRIC AUTOMATIC CHOKE
... by changing the previous nichrome wire type into the P.T.C. heater. The temperature characteristic of the P.T.C. heater
Basically it has a better opening curve to suit the engine without loading up in spots as did the early auto chokes. You can read more about choke technology in Patent US 3699937. Patent applied 1971. First application 1972.
Adjustment
See main article: Choke Adjustment
Wiring
1200 models starting with 1972 USA & 1976 Japan models were fitted with an automatic choke setup.
Choke harness wire = Red, seen at lower right of photo
This also uses a relay -- so wiring is complicated. However, you can simply connect the choke to 12V switch ignition (e.g. the ballast resistor). Using a relay that cuts power when the engine isn't running (alternator stops) is the preferred solution.
Part Numbers
RELAY - see Electric Choke Wiring#Part Numbers
B110 USA 14806-N2200 LABEL-AUTO CHOKE CONTROL
Electric Choke can use Holley 5200 or Weber DGV choke $10 to $15
Also See: DCH Carburetor Part Numbers
1974 A13 choke thermostat cover (fits 1200)
Also See
Choke Cable Carburetor Parts Choke Linkage