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[Datsun 1200 encyclopedia]

Stanza Strut Swap

From Datsun 1200 Club

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Categories: Brake Modifications | Suspension Modifications

Australia-assembled Stanza (1978-1981 A10) is a version of the B110/B210/B310 suspension ... so the parts fit with only small modifications. This is a popular swap in Australia, due to the beefy Girlock calipers fitted for the local market.



For larger-than-A10 brakes that bolt to the lightweight 1200 strut, see S13 Brakes.

Japan-built A10 (510/Stanza/Violet) has the same rotor size as large B310, but with larger calipers. See B310 swap (B310 and A10 use the same parts).

* No brake booster is needed
* Requires 13" or larger wheels
* Has 245mm rotor, non-vented
quote:the reason people [in Australia] use stanza struts is mostly availability ... a14 sunnys are rare, as they were only optional in wagons in the later years. however, japanese stanzas have the same brakes as a14 sunny's & they're a bit easier to find

For more information on struts swaps, including other choices, see main article: Strut swaps.

12208.jpgAlbum 12208 12210.jpgAlbum 12210

A10 Strut Swap is very similar to the B310 Strut Swap, main differences:

  • No machining needed for B310 strut with 245 mm brakes. With A10, you reportedly need to cut the strut shorter. Otherwise there will only be 2" of suspension travel
  • A10 has same 245mm (9.6") rotors but with (Aussie versions of A10, at least) Girlock calipers which use much bigger pads than the B310.
  • Any of the calipers will bolt to the A10 or B310 struts
B310: 1979-1982 Sunny, 210, 140Y/150Y
* NOT A12-power B310 Sunny

1200rallycar has this to say about the Stanza strut swap:

I installed stanza struts to give me 9.5" discs with huge pad area (single piston though) and also to permit putting wider wheels (14*5.5" maybe 6" can fit not sure) the struts are a straight swap if you use the following components

use the stanza struts and stub axle, 1200 springs and top-plate things, stanza lower control arms, 120y castor rods and 1200 tie rods. all ya gotta do is swap everything over and i think when you put the stanza struts in you reverse the sides they came from but its pretty obvious which one goes on which side when you go to put em on anyway. If you want a stiff front end too change over the oil in the stanza shockers to 20W-50 motor oil (ive done and it works a treat, no body roll) There is 250ml oil in these struts. I am quite happy with the brakes as theyll pull me up instantly without change to master and no booster used. As added bonus stanza struts installed like this give about 1 degree negative camber.

The stanza springs can be used in this install but would need to be cut down (legalities involved) and the holes where the strut mounts to the tower need to be bored and elongated out so you can use the stanza top plate, though these springs will be stiffer and its possible to lift the front of you car a little for more squat on launch.

There is two stanza struts one has a three bolt ball joint the other has a four bolt, you need the one with the four bolt, also there is notable diffrence between calipers, the four bolt has big girlocks, the three has small calipers similar to the 1200. (i think the change between struts occurs in 1980)

Late AUS Girlock caliper

TIP: If you want a stiff front end, change over the oil in the Stanza shocks to 20W-50 motor oil (1200rallycar has done and it works a treat, no body roll) There is 250ml oil in these struts. I am quite happy with the brakes as theyll pull me up instantly without change to master and no booster used. As added bonus Stanza struts installed with the wider Stanza ball joints give about 1 degree negative camber.

You can also upgrade the brakes fitted to Stanza/B310 struts:
1229.jpg Stanza struts and 275mm rotor Commodore VL Turbo caliper

Rotor Sizes

Rotor Sizes (JDM Parts Catalog)
Dia. (mm)Part NumberSource
212.540206-H1006B110, B210 with A12 1974, 1975
245 (SC20)40206-U5100A10
245 (SC20)40206-U6700B210 A14, B310 A14/A15, PB210 late
The rotors have different Part Numbers, but they are dimensionally the same. Aftermarket versions have the same part number.
Rotors: Rockauto lists same PNs for B310 and A10 $9.52 each
Another source lists these:
* Datsun 1600, 180B, 610 Sedan, SSS (9/1974 - 8/1978)
* Stanza A10 (5/1978 - 6/1979)
* Sunny A14, A15 (1979 - 1981)
* Vanette C20 (10/1980 - 5/1981)


If you plan on using the stock A10 brakes, be sure to get the right A10 assemblies (if you plan on changing the A10 brakes, use any A10 or B310 strut).

In Japan and USA, there is only a single A10 strut -- with four-bolt ball joint.

In Australia, there are two A10 strut/brake combos:

  • one has a three-bolt ball-joint (pre-1980?)
  • other has a four-bolt ball-joint (post-1980?)

You need the one with the four-bolt, also there is notable difference between calipers, the four-bolt has big Girlock calipers, the three has small calipers similar to the 1200. You want the one with the Girlocks.

A10 early/late Comparo

6625.jpg th_6622.gif th_6624.gif 9823.jpg th_9219.jpg 10028.jpg 10027.jpg


Coil Springs & Strut Top

The strut tops are different, so use the B110 tops with the A10 struts.

Now the spring of the A10 strut is too long for the B110.

  • Use the B110 coil spring (110 mm diameter), spring cup and strut top hat, and fit it to the A10 strut. If you lower the car more than an inch or two you will need to flare the fenders.
  • Or, cut the A10 springs by 2'

Optional, for racing or lowering

  • Remove the spring perch and use a weld-on Coilover Springs kit. You can lower the car more by getting the tires in closer to these small-diameter coils (using different offset wheels)

Coilovers also give you more room for wider tires, as well as more room to move the strut with adjustable camber/caster strut tops.

Remember that that the stock B110/B210/B310 spring rate is:

  • 90 lb/in
  • For road/race compromise, use 200 lb/in springs
  • For road racing, using 250 lb/in springs

Shortening the Strut

If you wish to lower your 1200 more than 2" lower than stock, the Stanza strut tubes must be shortened.

See main article: Shortening struts

Strut Inserts

Use 240K gas inserts or other 2-inch Strut Inserts. Donít forget you may need a spacer at the bottom of the strut tube to make it all line up, nice and tight. You can use a stack of large-diameter washers.

Balljoints and Lower Suspension

The spacing where the strut bolts to the steering arm is different from B110 spacing. So, use the A10/B310 lower parts:

  • steering arm (knuckle)
  • LCA (same length as B110) for A10 is identical to 1976- 1200 ute
B310: 1979-1982 Sunny aka 'Datsun 210', 140Y or 150Y
* not A12-power B310

Now the A10 uses the same strut-to-knuckle spacing, so you can use these parts:

  • A10/B310 W50 steering arm (knuckle)

A10/B310 Ball-joint Offset
7978.jpg About 15-18mm difference.

The Ball-joint bolts on top of the Lower Control Arm. The steering arm (steering knuckle) fits on top of the ball joint via the taper post.

  • Use the longer W50 ball-joint to gain negative camber. The downside is it pushes the tire to the outside, and wider tires will foul on the outer fenders.

The W50 ball joint uses a larger diameter taper. It wouldn't fit into the B110 & early 120Y steering arm. W50 steering arms, (As you know) have a greater bolt spacing than the B110s do. So you couldn't use them without swapping the whole strut. In other words, the strut & steering arm are a matched set.

Most Datsun/Nissan struts -- except B110/120Y -- up to and including R31 Skyline and 280ZX struts will bolt to an A10/B310 steering arm. The A10/B310 lower control arm is same length as a 1200. So you can use the A10/B310/B120 control arm with the large struts. The H74 or W50 (A10/B310) ball joint is needed to fit the steering arm, but the W50 will make wider track (resulting in about 1 degree negative camber). Better to use the H74 (late 120Y/late 1200 ute) ball joint, which preserves the stock track width.

Tension Rods

Use A10/B310/B120 lower control arm, and the B120 late caster rod

For more details, see Caster Rods.


Parts Needed

Grab the whole front strut/brake assembly as well as the brake hoses and the brake bias controller unless you plan on using an adjustable unit. Also grab the brake master cylinder if it is a similar type to the B110.


Use at your own risk. There is no guarantee these steps are complete.

  1. Remove strut
  2. Disassemble the coil and remove strut insert
  3. Cut the A10 spring cup from the strut tube
  4. Cut the tube to length
  5. Weld the B110 cup onto the A10 strut
  6. swap the springs and strut top from the B110 onto the A10 strut
  7. Put A10 strut on car. Put the A10 struts reverse of the sides they came from but its pretty obvious which one goes on which side when you go to put them on
  8. Check wheel alignment. Especially set the toe-in, it will have changed.

Part Numbers

NOTE: This is from the JDM parts catalogs. It doesn't list the good Aussie Girlock calipers and pads. Nor the B310.A12 (twin-piston calipers) brakes
ModelA10B310 A14/A15
Baffle Plate41151-2200041151-22000
Caliper Assy41000-W500141000-W5001
Brake Pad (JDM)41060-U4026 Akebono S21B41060-A1126 Akebono S17A (S21B pads on some)
Caliper Plate41025-2200041025-22000
Knuckle Arm40052-W5000, 40052-W506040052-W5000, 40052-W5060
Ball Joint40160-W500040160-W5000
Rod Assy LH (RHD)48630-W502548630-W5025
Lower Arm (RH)54100-H8500, 54100-W500054100-H8500
Tension Rod RH54470-W500054470-W5000
Strut Assy54302-W762554302-H8527,54302-H8529
Ball joints: 
* H74 type recommended
* W50 type A10 wide type

Photo Index

Click each photo for larger pic, details and maybe more information on A10 struts.

567.gif 569.gif 1228.jpg 1229.jpg 1324.jpg 1407.jpg 2122.jpg 2680.jpg 3005.jpg 3015.jpg 3016.jpg 3017.jpg 3288.jpg 3295.jpg 3773.jpg 4162.jpg 4733.jpg 5556.jpg 5796.jpg th_6620.gif th_6622.gif th_6624.gif 6625.jpg 7381.jpg 7442.jpg 7920.jpg 7921.jpg 7922.jpg 7978.jpg 8060.jpg th_9219.jpg 9585.jpg 9592.jpg 9599.jpg 9799.jpg 9823.jpg 10005.jpg 10007.jpg 10123.jpg 10666.jpg 10741.jpg 10742.jpg 11135.jpg 11182.jpg 11514.jpg 12061.jpg 12259.jpg 12892.jpg 12940.jpg 13016.jpg 13017.jpg

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