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Revision as of 19:07, 28 January 2012

Datsun 1200 uses front Mcpherson strut Front Suspension with the small 45 mm diameter strut tube. A McPherson strut is a combination shock absorber integrated with spring unit -- it's a structural piece, holding the car up and locating the suspension. This is as opposed to shock absorbers, which if removed won't affect ride height or cause the axles to fall off. Not to say you should remove the rear shocks, but they only control bounding.

Also see:

1 Overview
2 Gas Charged?
3 Rebuilding Strut
4 Strut Tops
5 Strut Insert Cartridges
6 Correct Oil to Use
7 Part Numbers
- 7.1 DRUM Struts
- 7.2 DISC Struts
8 Measurements
9 Strut Photo Index

Overview

The original 1200 strut is a rebuildable oil filled tube with shock valving and seals. Late Nissan come out with Strut "inserts", a sealed shock absorber-like cartridge that goes into the strut tube, and the original oil and valves are discarded. The originals work very well, but it is slightly faster to fit the inserts.

On a Datsun, the spindle and strut housing are one piece with the spindle welded to the bottom of the strut housing (strut tube).

Spindle -- "a rod on which something turns"

On a car, the Wheel Hub turns on the spindle

Steering Arm turns the wheels. Also known as a "Knuckle arm".

Strut/Spindle assembly bolted to the Steering Arm

Steering Arms attached to the Ball Joints

Ball joints fasten to the end of the Lower Control Arms (LCA)

Gas Charged?

I recommend getting standard shocks/struts, *not* gas-charged. Both lowpressure gas and high pressure gas ones are too stiff. The 1200 is so light it will make it ride even rougher, and rear gas struts cause it to bounce on bumpy pavement. On the other hand, if you have race car however, you may like gas-charged shocks.

I've always wanted to try adjustable Konis, they were made for the 1200 front and rear but difficult to find.

So the trick is finding standard shocks & struts. Most companies (Monroe, etc) only sell generic ones that fit the 1200 and the 25% heavier B210.

If you are thinking of selling, then any shock and strut is better than worn out ones...I've been there, done that with both wornout ones and gas charged.

For the front, if you can find the rebuild kit, that's what I recommend.

Quote:
I think Strut inserts are a bad idea. I have put strut inserts into two 1200s and neither rode as well afterwards. Nothing can beat the ride of the original struts. Plus the original
dampening can be modified so easily by changing the hydraulic fluid and with inserts, you would have to change the inserts to do that. The strut inserts wear out too fast also. My original 1200, Mareo Speedwagon I, had 17 years and over 300,000 miles on the original struts. They were never rebuilt either and rode excellent. At close to 200,000 miles, I learned the easy way to change the fluid in the struts. Unless your struts are totally worn out, rebuild them if they can be rebuilt and you will be much happier, I was anyway.
reference

Rebuilding Strut

For the front, if you can find the rebuild kit, just replace the seals etc. and put in new fluid. The alternative is a "strut insert" cartridge. Yes, the stock struts are fully rebuildable. It is relatively inexpensive. Your local Nissan dealer may still be able to get the rebuild kit. There are two kinds, one for Tokico struts and the other for Atsugi struts.

To "rebuild" the strut, you need *new* parts. The the rebuild kit will have full instructions. You need to carefully measure the correct amount of the appropriate strut fluid. It will seem to soft or too hard if the wrong amount is put in.

I wouldn't attempt this without the full instructions. If you have the factory manual, it is fairly easy to do. The Clymer manual doesn't explain how to rebuilt the strut.

Here are the specs for Datsun 1200 (B110) struts:

AMPCO/ATSUGI struts: 280cc of Nisseki Shock Absorber Oil A-2
TOKICO struts: 265cc of Tokico Light Oil No. 1

Measure it out carefully ...

Gland nut torque: 57-79.5 lb-ft

To bleed the shock, after the oil is put in and every assembled, pull the rod out fully with the shock vertical and the axle at the bottom. Then turn the shock upside down and push the rod fully in. Repeat this several times until the resistance on the rod feels consistant. Make several quick and short push pulls, the stiffness appears. If you make long continuous pulls or pushes on the shock, there is little resistance.

Strut Tops

The B110 strut tops are different from B210 & B310 tops. They latter have a higher profile and raise the car up, so use the B110 tops. If there is nothing poking up through the hole in the strut tower,then it's "wrong" for a 1200.

B310 tops

TIP: You can use rubber covers from an early 90's Mazda 323 w/ electric adjustable suspension. Thse covers sits perfectly over a 1200 strut tower, even with large 1200 strut tops or camber-adjustable strut tops.

Strut Insert Cartridges

Nissan 56105-H5025 about $50 each from Nissan, for Datsun B110

For swap information, see: Strut Insert Part Numbers

As shipped from the factory, there was no cartridge. Instead there is a valve, piston and oil. They were rebuildable, sometime just changing the oil will restore them to good working condition.

Correct Oil to Use

Atsugi strut: Nisseki Shock Absorber Oil A-2
Tokico: Tokico Light Oil No. 1 D-S

A liter will service two struts.

The strut oil is lighter than motor oil.

Can I use motorcycle fork oil in the struts? Perhaps. Racers use various viscosities of oil to fine-tune their motorcycle shocks. And some Datsun fans have used it. B110SSS recommends: "Go down to your local motorbike shop and get some mx fork oil - works very well".

DaveB recommends trying Dexron III ATF (as used in Tercel front struts). Motorcycle fork oil would be good too but is more expensive. Stay away from engine oil, it doesn't have the anti foaming additives of ATF or fork oils.

Part Numbers

Also see: Strut Insert Part Numbers

Here are the Nissan part numbers ... please let us know if they are available or NLA in your country (click Edit at the top of this page):

DRUM Struts

USA B110 Catalog

54302-H5025 KIT-STRUT FRONT SUSPENSION FOR DRUM (ATSUGI) (formerly 54302-H1025)
54302-H5026 KIT-STRUT FRONT SUSPENSION FOR DRUM (TOKICO) (formerly 54302-H1026)

JDM B210

54302-H5025 STRUT KIT-front suspension (Atsugi) 74-75 STD, DX
54302-H7425 STRUT KIT-front suspension (Atsugi) 76-78, Van from 1075
54302-H7426 STRUT KIT-front suspension (Tokico) 76-78, Van from 1075
54302-H7427 STRUT KIT-front suspension (Atsugi) 76-78 VH=PT

JDM B120 (1975-up catalog)

54302-H7425 STRUT KIT-front suspension RH to 7909 (replaced by 54302-H8528)
54302-H7426 STRUT KIT-front suspension RH to 8503 (interchanges with 54302-H7425)
54302-H8528 STRUT KIT-front suspension RH 7910-8503 (replaced by 54302-G1625)
54302-G1625 STRUT KIT-front suspension RH 8504-8910

DISC Struts

USA B110 Catalog

54302-H5125 KIT-STRUT FRONT SUSPENSION RH DISC (formerly 54302-H1125)

NOTE: These are same PN as 1974-1975 B210 with A12 engine GL & GX

INSERT CARTRIDGES

56110-H1025 and 56110-H1026 are the original nissan part #'s. They both Supercede to 56105-H5025. The suggested list price is $64.68.
- Comes with new 2" gland nut, washer and nylock nut
  See Strut Insert Part Numbers for details.

USA B210

54302-H5925 KIT-STRUT,FRONT SUSPENSION RH (ATSUGI) to 0775
54302-H5926 KIT-STRUT,FRONT SUSPENSION RH (TOKICO) to 0775
54302-H7525 KIT-STRUT,FRONT SUSPENSION RH (ATSUGI) from 0875

JDM B210

54302-H5125 STRUT KIT-front suspension RH (Atsygu) 74-75 GL, GX (Same as B110)
54302-H7525 KIT-STRUT,FRONT SUSPENSION RH (ATSUGI) 76-78 L16 (Same as late USA B210)

JDM B120 (1975-up catalog)

54302-G1526 STRUT KIT-front suspension RH 8910-

JDM B110

56210-H1022 Nissan Motorsport Strut Cartridges, Tokico Gas Shocks

ALL

54050-H1000 Strut rebound bumper (bushing)
for all 1200s, including newer trucks
54320-H100 Strut mounting isolator ass'y (strut top)
for all 1200s, including newer trucks

Measurements

441mm - strut tube base (mounting surface) to the top of the strut tube

Strut Photo Index

See Strut photo index

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Strut