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| - | Your [[Nissan A engine]] is built for spritely power but with maximum longevity. If you want to trade off a built of reliability and wear-time, you can increase the horsepower significantly. | + | Your [[Nissan A Engine]] is built for spritely power with maximum longevity. If you want to trade off reliability for wear-time, you can increase the horsepower significantly. The following applies to all Nissan A engines: A10, A12, A13, A14, A15 and A12A. |
| - | The following applies to all Nissan As: A10, A12, A13, A14, A15 and A12A. | + | = Baseline Tuning = |
| - | + | Tuning your car to factory specification -- without buying a hotrod parts -- can double the horsepower of your car. Even when relatively new, cars could be far out of tune. See [[Supertune]]. | |
| - | == Baseline Tuning == | + | |
| - | Tuning your car to factory specification -- without buying a hotrod parts -- can double the horsepower of your car. Even when relatively new, cars could be far out of tune. | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | See [http://datsun1200.com/modules/nsections/index.php?op=viewarticle&artid=70 SUPERTUNE -- Datsun 1200]]. | + | |
| Be sure to start here. Adding aftermarket "performance" parts won't help an engine that has basic tuning flaws in the first place. | Be sure to start here. Adding aftermarket "performance" parts won't help an engine that has basic tuning flaws in the first place. | ||
| - | + | = First Upgrade = | |
| - | == First Upgrade == | + | The biggest change you can make is to rev the engine up higher before shifting. Once you add a larger carburetor it will make more HP: |
| - | The biggest change you can make is to add a larger carburetor. | + | |
| * It won't make the engine run better below 4,000 rpm | * It won't make the engine run better below 4,000 rpm | ||
| - | * From 4,000 = 6,000 RPM will improve significantly | + | * From 5000 to 6000 RPM, hp will improve significantly |
| - | Adding a carburetor is relatively easy. The most popular swap is the Weber 32/36 DGV family. See [[Choosing a Carburetor]]. | + | Adding a carburetor is relatively easy. The most popular swap is the Weber 32/36 DGV family. See [[Choosing A Carburetor]]. |
| Of course at higher RPMs your engine will wear out faster. It is a trade-off you need to decide on. | Of course at higher RPMs your engine will wear out faster. It is a trade-off you need to decide on. | ||
| + | = Engine Swap = | ||
| + | Before you go farther, decide whether you should swap in a larger engine. For example, going from an A12 to an 80HP A15 may cost around $500 but will equal about $2000 worth of "buildup" for an A12. | ||
| - | == Engine Swap == | + | A15 with larger carb: 85 hp. Cost: $ |
| - | Before you go farther, decide whether you should swap in a larger engine. For example, going from an A12 to an A15 may cost around $500 but will equal about $2000 worth of "buildup" for an A12. | + | A12 build lots of work: 85 hp. Cost $$$ |
| - | A15 with larger carb: 95 gross hp. Cost: $ | ||
| - | A12 build lots of work: 95 gross hp. Cost $$$ | ||
| And the A15 will still have an acceleration advantage, having more average horsepower (25% more power at low RPMs). | And the A15 will still have an acceleration advantage, having more average horsepower (25% more power at low RPMs). | ||
| - | + | = Stage One Buildup = | |
| - | == Stage One Buildup == | + | Stage one is all about '''bolt-on induction improvements'''. This is relatively easy -- it doesn't involve removing the engine. |
| - | Stage one is all about '''bolt-on induction improvements'''. This is relatively easy -- but doesn't involve removing the engine. | + | |
| - | + | ||
| $ | $ | ||
| - | * Larger carburetor, e.g. Weber 32/36 (see [[Choosing a Carburetor]]) | + | * Larger carburetor, e.g. Weber 32/36 (see [[Choosing A Carburetor]]) |
| - | * Exhaust headers (extractors) | + | * Exhaust [[headers]] (extractors) |
| - | * 1.75 inch diamter exhaust (entire exhaust, including muffler) | + | * Stock 1.5 inch diameter exhaust |
| On an A12 engine, this might make, what? 75hp? (compared to 69hp stock). This is measured on an engine dyno (Factory specs are *not* measured by rear-wheel-horsepower -- see [[Performance]]). | On an A12 engine, this might make, what? 75hp? (compared to 69hp stock). This is measured on an engine dyno (Factory specs are *not* measured by rear-wheel-horsepower -- see [[Performance]]). | ||
| Line 41: | Line 34: | ||
| Or: $$ | Or: $$ | ||
| * Sidedraft inlet manifold | * Sidedraft inlet manifold | ||
| - | * Twin sidedraft carburetors (see [[Choosing a Carburetor]]) | + | * Twin sidedraft carburetors (see [[Choosing A Carburetor]]) |
| * Exhaust headers (extractors) | * Exhaust headers (extractors) | ||
| - | * 2.00 inch diamter exhaust (entire exhaust, including muffler) | + | * 1.75 inch diameter exhaust (entire exhaust, including muffler) |
| On an A12 engine, this might make, what? 80hp? | On an A12 engine, this might make, what? 80hp? | ||
| - | == Stage Two == | + | = Stage Two = |
| Stage Two requires engine work on the inlet and exhaust side. It builds on Stage 1 by adding: | Stage Two requires engine work on the inlet and exhaust side. It builds on Stage 1 by adding: | ||
| - | |||
| $$$ | $$$ | ||
| - | * Performance Camshaft | + | * Performance [[Camshaft]], such as A12GX camshaft |
| * Cylinder head work: | * Cylinder head work: | ||
| - | ** [[Port and polish]] and larger valves, or | + | ** [[Head Porting]] and larger valves, or |
| ** Oval-port head swap | ** Oval-port head swap | ||
| On an A12 engine, this might make, what? 100hp? | On an A12 engine, this might make, what? 100hp? | ||
| - | Alternatively, adding a turbocharger or supercharger will make equivalent maxium horsepower but with more low-speed horsepower. See [[Forced Induction]] | + | = Stage Three = |
| + | Stage Two is a high-dollar option that includes new pistons. It builds on Stage 2 by adding: | ||
| + | $$$$ | ||
| + | * Flattop pistons (for A12, use Datsun 1000 coupe pistons from KB10 model), or Forged dome-top high compression pistons | ||
| + | * [[Big Valves]]: Larger valves than A14/A15 with [[Head Porting]] | ||
| - | == Stage Three == | + | High Compression pistons can add 3% horsepower, but you will need to buy premium fuel. Flattops will add 1% maximum horsepower. |
| - | Stage Two is a high-dollar option that includes new pistons. It builds on Stage 1 by adding: | + | |
| - | $$$$ | + | <blockquote>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=87257#forumpost87257 COUP1200]: My A14 makes 140hp & its not EFI or turbo. I have twin 40mm webers, good extractors the head flowes 141hp. All your power gain is in the head big valves extencive amounts of porting good spark ... I dont run roller rockers & have not had a problem.you dont need to go to big with the cam mine about 74deg ... Mine makes power to 7500rpm. |
| - | * Flattop pistons (for A12, use Datsun 1000 coupe pistons from KB10 model), or | + | <br> |
| - | * Forged dome-top high compression piston | + | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=7240 feral]: COOPS 1200 SEDAN AFTER RUNNING A 2:11 AT PHILLIP ISLAND CIRCUIT ... The car sounded awesome and handled very well. In typical 1200 fashion showed alot of more exotic machinery including a Porsche 924 turbo and a lotus elite a clean pair of tailights :-) |
| + | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=7240 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/7240.jpg]</blockquote> | ||
| + | |||
| + | = Short Block = | ||
| + | Upgrading parts to the block (rods, rod bolts, studs, forged crank, etc.) does not make more HP, although it may enable to engine to last longer. A totally factory-stock A12 short block can make 140 reliable HP with the right top-end parts. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Forged pistons are generally called for at power levels in excess of 140 HP. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ARP rod bolts can be used for RPM usage above 8500 RPM. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Main studs will not increase the reliability -- the A12 already comes with the same tough main cap bolts as the L18 engine. It's overkill right from the factory. | ||
| - | High Compression pistons will add 3% or more horsepower, but you will need to buy premium fuel. | + | The stock crankshaft is plenty strong for 8500 RPM use. |
| + | = Forced Induction = | ||
| + | Alternatively, adding a turbocharger or supercharger will make equivalent maximum horsepower but with more low-speed horsepower. See [[Forced Induction]]. | ||
| [[Category:Engine Modifications]] | [[Category:Engine Modifications]] | ||
Revision as of 05:49, 11 April 2013
Your Nissan A Engine is built for spritely power with maximum longevity. If you want to trade off reliability for wear-time, you can increase the horsepower significantly. The following applies to all Nissan A engines: A10, A12, A13, A14, A15 and A12A.
Contents |
Baseline Tuning
Tuning your car to factory specification -- without buying a hotrod parts -- can double the horsepower of your car. Even when relatively new, cars could be far out of tune. See Supertune.
Be sure to start here. Adding aftermarket "performance" parts won't help an engine that has basic tuning flaws in the first place.
First Upgrade
The biggest change you can make is to rev the engine up higher before shifting. Once you add a larger carburetor it will make more HP:
- It won't make the engine run better below 4,000 rpm
- From 5000 to 6000 RPM, hp will improve significantly
Adding a carburetor is relatively easy. The most popular swap is the Weber 32/36 DGV family. See Choosing A Carburetor.
Of course at higher RPMs your engine will wear out faster. It is a trade-off you need to decide on.
Engine Swap
Before you go farther, decide whether you should swap in a larger engine. For example, going from an A12 to an 80HP A15 may cost around $500 but will equal about $2000 worth of "buildup" for an A12.
A15 with larger carb: 85 hp. Cost: $ A12 build lots of work: 85 hp. Cost $$$
And the A15 will still have an acceleration advantage, having more average horsepower (25% more power at low RPMs).
Stage One Buildup
Stage one is all about bolt-on induction improvements. This is relatively easy -- it doesn't involve removing the engine.
$
- Larger carburetor, e.g. Weber 32/36 (see Choosing A Carburetor)
- Exhaust headers (extractors)
- Stock 1.5 inch diameter exhaust
On an A12 engine, this might make, what? 75hp? (compared to 69hp stock). This is measured on an engine dyno (Factory specs are *not* measured by rear-wheel-horsepower -- see Performance).
Or: $$
- Sidedraft inlet manifold
- Twin sidedraft carburetors (see Choosing A Carburetor)
- Exhaust headers (extractors)
- 1.75 inch diameter exhaust (entire exhaust, including muffler)
On an A12 engine, this might make, what? 80hp?
Stage Two
Stage Two requires engine work on the inlet and exhaust side. It builds on Stage 1 by adding:
$$$
- Performance Camshaft, such as A12GX camshaft
- Cylinder head work:
- Head Porting and larger valves, or
- Oval-port head swap
On an A12 engine, this might make, what? 100hp?
Stage Three
Stage Two is a high-dollar option that includes new pistons. It builds on Stage 2 by adding:
$$$$
- Flattop pistons (for A12, use Datsun 1000 coupe pistons from KB10 model), or Forged dome-top high compression pistons
- Big Valves: Larger valves than A14/A15 with Head Porting
High Compression pistons can add 3% horsepower, but you will need to buy premium fuel. Flattops will add 1% maximum horsepower.
COUP1200: My A14 makes 140hp & its not EFI or turbo. I have twin 40mm webers, good extractors the head flowes 141hp. All your power gain is in the head big valves extencive amounts of porting good spark ... I dont run roller rockers & have not had a problem.you dont need to go to big with the cam mine about 74deg ... Mine makes power to 7500rpm.
feral: COOPS 1200 SEDAN AFTER RUNNING A 2:11 AT PHILLIP ISLAND CIRCUIT ... The car sounded awesome and handled very well. In typical 1200 fashion showed alot of more exotic machinery including a Porsche 924 turbo and a lotus elite a clean pair of tailights :-)
Short Block
Upgrading parts to the block (rods, rod bolts, studs, forged crank, etc.) does not make more HP, although it may enable to engine to last longer. A totally factory-stock A12 short block can make 140 reliable HP with the right top-end parts.
Forged pistons are generally called for at power levels in excess of 140 HP.
ARP rod bolts can be used for RPM usage above 8500 RPM.
Main studs will not increase the reliability -- the A12 already comes with the same tough main cap bolts as the L18 engine. It's overkill right from the factory.
The stock crankshaft is plenty strong for 8500 RPM use.
Forced Induction
Alternatively, adding a turbocharger or supercharger will make equivalent maximum horsepower but with more low-speed horsepower. See Forced Induction.